The Origins of Shima Onsen and the Tamura Family
The history of Shima Tamura reaches back to the Sengoku period, an era of civil war and competing samurai domains in Japan.
According to tradition, in 1563, when Iwabitsu Castle fell, a samurai named Tamura Jingorō Kiyomasa remained in the Shima area. He is said to have discovered a new hot spring emerging from the Shima River and established a small inn there.
This is regarded as the beginning of the Tamura family’s connection with Shima Onsen and eventually became one of the foundations for the development of the hot spring resort.
During the early Edo period, the Tamura family was appointed “Yumori,” or guardian and manager of the hot springs, through the Sanada family, the lords of the Numata domain. The Tamura family therefore played an important role in managing and developing Shima Onsen.
In 1834, the main building was reconstructed in the prestigious mukō-hafu architectural style, featuring a distinctive gabled entrance. Elements of this historic architecture can still be seen today.
A Historic Main Building and Traditional Architecture
One of the most impressive features of Shima Tamura is its traditional main entrance, with an irregular-hipped roof covered with thatch. The building preserves the atmosphere of an Edo-period hot spring inn and provides a glimpse into the social customs of historic Japan.
Inside the inn, rooms known as the “Jōdan-no-ma” and “Naka-no-ma” have been preserved. The Jōdan-no-ma was reserved for high-ranking guests, while the Naka-no-ma was used by their attendants.
The distinction between these rooms reflects the formal hierarchy that once shaped hospitality in Japan. For modern travelers, these spaces provide a fascinating look at how distinguished guests were accommodated in earlier centuries.
Historic Sculptures and Cultural Treasures
The inn also preserves a number of historic objects, including Nio guardian statues and elaborate carvings created by skilled traditional craftsmen.
These works of art and architectural details add another dimension to a stay at Shima Tamura. Guests are not simply staying at a hot spring inn; they are experiencing a place where architecture, craftsmanship, and the history of Japanese hospitality have been carefully preserved.
Six Different Bathing Areas
One of the greatest attractions of Shima Tamura is its collection of six different bathing areas, each with its own atmosphere and setting.
Guests can enjoy spacious indoor baths, atmospheric open-air baths, and bathing areas where the sound of a mountain stream can be heard nearby. Exploring the different baths allows visitors to experience the changing character of the natural hot spring environment.
The inn’s six private hot spring sources produce approximately 1,600 liters of water per minute. The abundant water supply makes it possible to enjoy natural-flow bathing while surrounded by the forests and mountain scenery of Shima.
The experience also reflects the traditional toji culture of Japan. In the past, people would stay at hot spring resorts for days or weeks, bathing regularly and taking time away from everyday life. Shima Tamura carries this idea of a restorative stay into the modern era.
Fukuzawa Yukichi and the Development of Transportation
Shima Tamura also has an interesting connection with one of Japan’s most influential educators and thinkers, Fukuzawa Yukichi.
During the Meiji period, the inn’s 12th head of the family, Tamura Shigesaburō, studied at Keio University and received instruction directly from Fukuzawa Yukichi.
Following Fukuzawa’s advice, Shigesaburō recognized the importance of transportation in developing the region. He established the Gunma Automobile Company and introduced a regular bus service connecting Shibukawa Station with Shima Onsen.
At the time, reaching mountain hot spring resorts could be difficult and time-consuming. The new transportation service helped make Shima more accessible and contributed to the renewed development of the resort.
In this way, Shima Tamura was connected not only with the history of hot spring culture but also with the modernization of transportation in Gunma.
A Favorite Retreat of Artists and Cultural Figures
Throughout its long history, Shima Tamura has welcomed numerous writers, poets, artists, and other cultural figures.
Akiko Yosano, one of Japan’s best-known modern poets, wrote poetry inspired by the hot springs of Shima. Other notable visitors included poet and physician Mokichi Saitō and sculptor and poet Kōtarō Takamura.
Actor Kiyoshi Kodama also stayed in the area during the wartime period after evacuating from the city and is said to have maintained a close connection with Shima afterward.
The presence of these cultural figures reflects the enduring appeal of Shima as a place where artists could step away from everyday life and find inspiration in its mountains, rivers, and hot springs.
Located in Japan’s First National Recreational Hot Spring Resort
The natural environment surrounding Shima Onsen has long been recognized for its importance as a place for recreation and rest.
The area became part of Joshin’etsukogen National Park in 1949. Five years later, in 1954, Shima Onsen was designated as Japan’s first National Recreational Hot Spring Resort.
Surrounded by forests, mountains, and the clear waters of the Shima River, the area was recognized as an ideal setting for relaxation and recuperation.
Shima Tamura has developed alongside the hot spring resort for centuries, preserving the spirit of traditional Japanese hospitality while adapting to changing times.
A Five-Century Hot Spring Tradition
Shima Tamura is much more than a place to spend the night. It is a destination where visitors can experience the history of Shima Onsen itself.
Its abundant natural hot spring water, traditional architecture, historic rooms, cultural treasures, and connections with important figures from Japanese history all contribute to the character of this remarkable ryokan.
At the same time, the surrounding forests and mountain streams create a peaceful environment in which guests can slow down and enjoy the quieter side of Japan.
For travelers seeking a traditional Japanese hot spring experience, Shima Tamura offers the rare opportunity to bathe in natural hot spring waters while staying within a ryokan whose history stretches back more than five centuries.