Hot Spring Qualities and Benefits
The waters of Shima Onsen are classified as a sodium-calcium chloride-sulfate spring and are generally described as a low-hypotonic, neutral, high-temperature hot spring. The source temperatures range from approximately 43°C to 82°C, providing abundant naturally heated water.
The total registered spring output reaches approximately 3,500 liters per minute, with 42 hot spring sources registered in the area.
Shima Onsen has traditionally been associated with relief from various ailments, including rheumatism, neuralgia, skin conditions, and digestive disorders. It has particularly been known as a hot spring beneficial for the stomach and digestive system, and together with Gagai Onsen in Miyagi Prefecture and Yunohira Onsen in Oita Prefecture, it has traditionally been referred to as one of Japan’s Three Great Hot Springs for Digestive Ailments.
Some sources are also suitable for drinking the spring water, allowing visitors to experience the traditional Japanese practice of enjoying hot spring water both externally and internally. Visitors should follow local guidance regarding which sources are approved for drinking.
Shima Onsen has also long been known as the “finishing bath for Kusatsu.” In traditional hot spring therapy, visitors would first bathe at the strongly acidic Kusatsu Onsen and then visit Shima Onsen, whose waters were valued for their moisturizing and soothing qualities. This custom became part of the region’s distinctive hot spring culture.
Exploring the Shima Onsen Town
The hot spring town extends for approximately 4 kilometers from north to south along the Shima River. It is divided into five areas: Hinata-mikami, Yuzuriha, Shinyu, Yamaguchi, and Onsen-guchi.
Each district has its own character, and simply walking through the town is an enjoyable way to experience its traditional atmosphere.
Ochiai-dori Shopping Street
Ochiai-dori in the Shinyu district is a charming shopping street with a distinctly nostalgic Showa-era atmosphere. Traditional craft shops and long-established restaurants line the street, creating a warm and welcoming setting characteristic of an old-fashioned Japanese hot spring town.
Public Baths and Foot Baths
Visitors can enjoy several public bathhouses that can be used with a small voluntary contribution, as well as the municipal day-use facility Shima Seiryu-no-Yu.
In the Yamaguchi district, a foot bath offers a relaxing way to enjoy the hot spring waters while listening to the gentle sound of the river flowing nearby.
Okushima Lake and Scenic Nature
At the uppermost reaches of the Shima River lies Okushima Lake, a reservoir formed by the Shima River Dam. Its remarkably clear cobalt-blue waters are known as “Shima Blue.”
The lake changes its appearance with the seasons. It is particularly beautiful during the fresh greenery of spring and the colorful foliage of autumn, attracting many photographers who come to capture its striking scenery.
Historic Architecture in the Hinata-mikami District
Hinata-mikami Yakushido Hall
Hinata-mikami Yakushido is an elegant temple hall distinguished by its traditional thatched roof. Designated as an Important Cultural Property of Japan, the building was constructed in 1598 in the Zen architectural style.
It has long been a place of worship for visitors seeking the healing powers of the hot springs. Regarded as the birthplace of Shima Onsen, the solemn surroundings offer a peaceful atmosphere and a sense of connection with the area’s long history.
Literature and Shima Onsen
Shima Onsen has attracted numerous writers and poets over the years. Among them was the celebrated poet Yosano Akiko, who composed many poems here, capturing the scenery of the mountains and hot springs with rich emotion.
Following in the footsteps of these literary figures is another enjoyable way to explore Shima Onsen and appreciate the cultural atmosphere that has developed around the hot spring town.
Legends and the History of the Hot Springs
The Sakanoue no Tamuramaro Legend
There are two major legends concerning the origins of Shima Onsen. One tells of Sakanoue no Tamuramaro, the celebrated military commander who served as Sei-i Taishogun during the reign of Emperor Kanmu.
According to the legend, Tamuramaro visited the Hinata-mikami area and bathed in its hot springs while on a campaign against the Emishi in northeastern Japan. This story has traditionally been associated with the origin of Shima Onsen.
The Usui Sadamitsu Legend
Another legend dates the discovery of the spring to 989. According to this story, Usui Sadamitsu, one of the Four Heavenly Kings serving Minamoto no Yorimitsu, discovered a sacred spring after receiving a divine message in a dream.
A child appeared to him in the dream and told him that a sacred spring capable of curing “forty thousand ailments” would be bestowed upon him. This story is also said to have given rise to the name Shima. The spring associated with this legend is believed to be the present-day Gomusō-no-Yu.
Development from the Medieval to Early Modern Period
Shima Onsen was already known during the Kamakura period. During the Warring States period, Sanada Masayuki is said to have improved roads and bridges in the area, helping establish the foundations of Shima as a destination for hot spring therapy.
During the Eiroku era, inns serving hot spring visitors were established, and the hot spring town gradually took shape.
Sekizenkan, founded in 1691, is known as one of Japan’s oldest surviving hot spring inns. Its iconic red bridge and traditional main building have become symbols of Shima Onsen.
Records of hot spring fees from the Edo period also survive. Public bathhouses and steam baths were developed, and Shima gradually acquired the infrastructure and character of an established hot spring resort.
Shima Onsen in the Modern Era
When a prefectural road opened in 1889, access to Shima Onsen improved considerably, leading to an increase in visitors seeking hot spring treatments.
Many prominent writers and artists, including Yosano Akiko, Saito Mokichi, Takamura Kotaro, and Dazai Osamu, visited the area. Shima Onsen consequently became known not only for its hot springs and natural beauty but also as a destination with a rich literary and cultural atmosphere.
In 1954, Shima Onsen became the first National Hot Spring Health Resort designated under Japan’s national system. In 1949, the surrounding region had also been incorporated into the Joshin’etsukogen National Park.
Since the Heisei era, the completion of the Shima River Dam and improvements to the hot spring town have further enhanced the area as a tourist destination.
The Living Tradition of Hot Spring Therapy
In the past, many visitors stayed at Shima Onsen for extended periods as part of the traditional Japanese practice of toji, or hot spring therapy. Today, shorter stays for sightseeing and relaxation have become more common, but the peaceful surroundings and abundant hot spring waters continue to attract visitors seeking rest and rejuvenation.
The quiet mountains, the sound of clear streams, and the warmth of historic hot spring inns create an atmosphere that has remained largely unchanged through the generations.
Shima Onsen is a timeless hot spring retreat where nature, history, literature, and traditional bathing culture come together. Surrounded by beautiful mountain scenery and a deep cultural heritage, visitors can slow down, enjoy the hot springs, and experience the peaceful atmosphere that has drawn travelers here for centuries.