A Historic Hot Spring Said to Date Back to the Jomon Period
The exact date when Sawatari Onsen was first discovered is unknown. However, archaeological research has suggested that hot spring water was already emerging here during the Jomon period, thousands of years ago. Another local tradition dates the opening of the hot spring to 1191.
The surrounding area has long provided an environment where people could live close to nature, and the hot spring developed alongside the history of the mountain community.
There is also a local legend that Minamoto no Yoritomo, one of the most influential warriors of medieval Japan, bathed here. Over the centuries, Sawatari became popular not only with travelers seeking therapeutic bathing but also with samurai, writers, and other cultural figures.
During the Edo period (1603–1868), the area flourished as a toji destination, a traditional hot spring retreat where people stayed for extended periods to rest and recover. Its appeal continued into the modern era, attracting a number of literary and cultural figures.
A Hot Spring Loved by Writers and Cultural Figures
Minamoto no Yoritomo and the “Healing Bath After Kusatsu”
According to local tradition, in 1191, Minamoto no Yoritomo visited Kusatsu Onsen. The strongly acidic waters of Kusatsu were said to have irritated his skin, so he subsequently used the gentler waters of Sawatari to soothe it.
This story gave rise to the expression “the healing bath of Kusatsu”. Whether viewed as historical fact or local legend, the tale has become an important part of Sawatari’s identity and reflects the traditional belief in the gentle nature of its waters.
Bokusui Wakayama and the Kusaka Pass
The celebrated Japanese poet Bokusui Wakayama frequently traveled through the mountainous region of Joshu, the historical name for much of present-day Gunma Prefecture, and also visited Sawatari Onsen.
During his journeys across Kusaka Pass, he composed poems inspired by the surrounding mountains and landscapes. A monument bearing one of his poems has been erected at the pass, making the area a destination of interest for visitors who appreciate Japanese literature.
A Place Associated with Choei Takano
Choei Takano, a scholar of Western studies and medicine during the late Edo period, also had a connection with Sawatari Onsen. He was invited by physicians in the Agatsuma area and is said to have helped introduce Western medical knowledge here.
Banchobashi Bridge, which crosses the Hebinogawa River, is traditionally associated with Takano. According to local lore, he enjoyed fishing here at night. Reminders of these historical connections can still be found throughout the hot spring town.
Mineral-Rich Waters Known as “One Bath, Skin Like a Jewel”
Sawatari Onsen’s waters are classified as a calcium-sodium sulfate-chloride spring. The source temperature is approximately 55°C (131°F), and the water is clear and pleasantly soft to the touch.
The spring water is believed to originate from rain that fell more than 50 years ago. After slowly circulating deep underground for many years, the water absorbs minerals and other natural components before emerging at the surface as hot spring water.
Traditionally, the waters have been used for bathing associated with a range of ailments, including cuts, burns, neuralgia, rheumatism, chronic digestive disorders, sensitivity to cold, and certain women’s health conditions. These are traditional or historical claims associated with hot spring bathing and should not be considered a substitute for medical treatment.
The water is especially appreciated for its effect on the skin. After bathing, many visitors find that their skin feels soft, smooth, and moisturized. This reputation is reflected in the expression “one bath, skin like a jewel”, and the onsen has consequently become popular with visitors seeking a relaxing beauty bath.
The nearby Gunma Rehabilitation Hospital has also incorporated hot spring bathing into rehabilitation programs, making use of the area’s natural hot spring resources.
A Quiet and Traditional Hot Spring Town
Sawatari Onsen has a small collection of traditional Japanese inns and communal bathhouses. Unlike large and highly developed hot spring resorts, the town retains a simple, intimate atmosphere that reflects its character as a traditional mountain retreat.
Visitors can experience the warm hospitality of a small local community while enjoying the hot spring waters. The communal bathhouse is also a place where travelers may encounter local residents, offering a glimpse into everyday Japanese hot spring culture.
Some visitors enjoy alternating between hot and moderately warm baths, a traditional bathing style believed to help warm the body thoroughly. It is also traditionally recommended to avoid rinsing off immediately after bathing so that some of the mineral-rich spring water remains on the skin.
A Hot Spring Town That Recovered from Disaster
Sawatari Onsen has faced several serious disasters throughout its history. The area was damaged by torrential rain in 1935 and later suffered a major fire in 1945.
Despite these hardships, local residents worked together to rebuild the community and preserve the hot spring tradition. The Sawatari Onsen of today is therefore also a symbol of the resilience and determination of the people who have protected this mountain retreat through difficult times.
How to Get to Sawatari Onsen
By car, Sawatari Onsen is approximately 60 minutes from the Shibukawa-Ikaho Interchange on the Kan-Etsu Expressway.
For visitors using public transportation, take the JR Agatsuma Line to Nakanojo Station, then continue by a Kan-etsu Kotsu bus. The bus journey takes approximately 25 minutes.
Sawatari Onsen is also well suited to a trip combining several of Gunma’s famous hot spring destinations. Travelers can include it in a wider itinerary featuring Shima Onsen and Kusatsu Onsen.
A Peaceful Retreat for Connecting with Traditional Hot Spring Culture
Sawatari Onsen is a hidden gem for travelers who value authentic hot spring experiences, history, and the peaceful atmosphere of rural Japan rather than large-scale resort facilities.
Surrounded by mountains and blessed with naturally flowing hot spring water, the town offers an opportunity to slow down and experience the traditional Japanese culture of toji, or therapeutic hot spring retreats.
Known for generations as the “finishing bath of Kusatsu” and celebrated for its gentle waters and the expression “one bath, skin like a jewel,” Sawatari Onsen continues to attract visitors looking for a quiet place to relax.
For travelers exploring Gunma’s famous hot spring region, a stay at Sawatari offers a chance to step away from the crowds, soak in historic mineral-rich waters, and enjoy the tranquil atmosphere of a traditional Japanese mountain village.