A Scenic Walk from Yubatake
Sainokawara Park is approximately a 15-minute walk from Yubatake, the symbolic center of Kusatsu Onsen. From Yubatake, visitors can follow Nishinokawara Street, a lively road lined with traditional Japanese inns, souvenir shops, restaurants, and cafés.
The route itself is part of the experience. Visitors can enjoy the atmosphere of the hot spring town while walking through the streets in a yukata, a casual traditional Japanese robe commonly worn at onsen resorts.
The Kusatsu Kataoka Tsurutaro Museum is also located along the way, making it possible to combine the walk with an art visit before continuing toward the park.
Anamori Inari Shrine and Legends of the Oni
Inside the park stands Anamori Inari Shrine, recognizable by its rows of bright vermilion torii gates. The shrine creates a particularly striking scene when surrounded by snow in winter.
The Sainokawara area was once associated with the name “Oni no Sensui,” meaning the “Spring of the Oni,” and local traditions described the area as a place inhabited by oni, supernatural creatures from Japanese folklore.
Names such as “Oni no Chagama”, or “Oni’s Tea Kettle,” and “Oni no Sumo-ba,” or “Oni’s Sumo Ring,” remain associated with the area. These legends add a mysterious atmosphere to the steaming landscape.
Dr. Erwin von Baelz and the History of Medicine in Kusatsu
On elevated ground within the park are busts of the German physicians Dr. Erwin von Baelz and Dr. Julius Scriba, who played important roles in the development of modern medicine in Japan.
Dr. Baelz visited Kusatsu in 1878 and studied the qualities of its hot spring water as well as traditional bathing practices such as Jikan-yu, a method of bathing in very hot spring water for a controlled period.
Baelz’s research helped introduce Kusatsu Onsen to a wider international audience. Monuments, inscriptions, and literary stone markers scattered around the park also provide glimpses into the history of the hot spring resort.
Sainokawara Open-Air Bath — A Vast Outdoor Hot Spring
At the far end of the park is the municipal Sainokawara Open-Air Bath. With a combined bathing area of approximately 500 square meters for men and women, it is known for its expansive outdoor setting.
The large bath is surrounded by forest, allowing visitors to enjoy a relaxing soak while taking in the natural scenery. The water comes from the famous Bandai source, whose spring water emerges at an exceptionally high temperature of approximately 94–95°C (201–203°F).
The spring is classified as an acidic chloride-sulfate hot spring, with a pH of approximately 1.7. Kusatsu’s strongly acidic water is one of the defining characteristics of the resort’s hot spring culture.
The bath facility does not have washing areas, but changing rooms and lockers are provided for visitors.
Scenery in Every Season
One of the greatest attractions of the open-air bath is the opportunity to experience the surrounding landscape throughout the year.
Spring brings fresh green foliage, while summer surrounds the bath with deep green forests. In autumn, colorful leaves transform the scenery, and winter offers the memorable experience of bathing while looking out over a snow-covered landscape.
The combination of warm hot spring water, rising steam, forests, and seasonal scenery creates an immersive experience in nature. A winter snow-viewing bath is especially memorable, with the white landscape contrasting dramatically with the steaming water.
A Magical Atmosphere After Dark
After sunset, parts of Sainokawara are illuminated, creating a completely different atmosphere from the daytime landscape.
Light filtering through the rising steam gives the park a mysterious and almost dreamlike appearance. The evening scenery is particularly enjoyable for visitors taking a quiet walk after bathing.
On clear nights, the experience can be enhanced by the view of the star-filled sky above the steaming outdoor bath and surrounding mountains.
History, Religion, and Literature Along the Walking Route
Sainokawara Park contains numerous other points of interest connected with local history, religion, and literature. These include Fudotaki Waterfall, associated with Fudo Myoo, as well as a Mizuko Jizo statue and a monument commemorating the Japanese poet Saito Mokichi.
Saito Mokichi visited Kusatsu and left poems inspired by the hot spring landscape. One of his verses describes hot water bubbling up and flowing everywhere while a person walks through the valley, feeling warmth throughout the body.
The poem captures the distinctive experience of walking through Sainokawara, where hot spring water and steam are an integral part of the natural environment.
A Unique Landscape Where Nature and Hot Springs Meet
Sainokawara Park is more than simply a place to enjoy hot spring water. It is a destination where visitors can experience the natural forces, history, legends, religion, and culture that have shaped Kusatsu Onsen.
The steaming streams and pools provide a dramatic reminder of the geothermal activity beneath the region, while shrines, monuments, and historic references reveal the cultural traditions that have developed around the hot springs.
Walking quietly through the steam-filled landscape, it is easy to understand why this area inspired legends of supernatural creatures and attracted visitors seeking healing for centuries.
One of the Essential Sights of Kusatsu Onsen
Together with Yubatake, Sainokawara Park is one of the most recognizable sightseeing destinations in Kusatsu Onsen. Its combination of dramatic geothermal scenery and peaceful mountain surroundings makes it a memorable stop for both first-time visitors and returning travelers.
When visiting Kusatsu, take the time to walk beyond the busy center of the hot spring town and follow the path toward Sainokawara Park. The sight of steam rising from the river, pools, and rocks against the surrounding mountains offers a unique glimpse into the natural power that has made Kusatsu famous.