An Ancient Temple Surrounded by Legends and History
According to the temple’s traditional history, known as the “Shiraiwasan Chokokuji Engi,” three Kannon statues are said to have appeared along the coast of Echigo Province in 711. Each statue was subsequently enshrined at a place connected with its religious tradition, and one was brought to Shiraiwa. This is regarded as the beginning of Chokokuji Temple.
Another local tradition recorded in the Kuruma Village History tells a different story. According to the legend, in 654, during the reign of Emperor Kōtoku, the famous ascetic En no Ozunu, also known as En no Gyōja, visited the area. He is said to have placed a Buddhist image on a large white rock and built a hall there. This tradition is associated with the origin of the name Shiraiwa, meaning “White Rock.”
The temple is also traditionally said to have developed under the patronage of Emperor Shōmu, with the Buddhist priests Tokudō and Gyōki credited with establishing temple buildings. Over the centuries, the temple is said to have received the devotion of numerous prominent historical figures, including Minamoto no Yoshiie, Minamoto no Yoritomo, Nitta Yoshisada, Uesugi Norimasa, and Nagano Narimasa.
During the Sengoku period, the temple was destroyed in 1563 when Takeda Shingen attacked nearby Minowa Castle. The Kannon Hall was rebuilt in 1580 under the leadership of a monk known as Yumudō. During the Edo period, the temple received land under a shuinjō, an official land grant bearing the shogunate’s red seal, from Tokugawa Iemitsu, helping to stabilize its religious and economic foundation.
In the modern period, the temple was temporarily affiliated with the Tendai school of Buddhism. After World War II, it returned to its present tradition, Kinpusan Shugendo Honshu.
Important Cultural Properties and a Hidden Buddhist Image
Chokokuji Temple preserves numerous valuable Buddhist statues and historic objects. Among the most important is the principal image, a wooden standing Eleven-Headed Kannon, designated an Important Cultural Property of Gunma Prefecture.
The statue stands an impressive 229.6 centimeters high and is believed to have been made in the late Heian period, around the late 11th to early 12th century. It was carved from a single block of Japanese kaya nutmeg tree wood.
The principal image is regarded as a hibutsu, or “hidden Buddha,” and is not normally displayed to the public. This tradition adds an especially mysterious and sacred character to the temple.
A separate standing Eleven-Headed Kannon statue, believed to date from the late Kamakura period, serves as the temple’s mae-dachi, or attendant image placed before the principal image. It is also designated an Important Cultural Property of Gunma Prefecture.
Other important works include standing statues of Fudō Myōō and Bishamonten, as well as the temple’s Niōmon Gate and its guardian Niō statues. These are designated Important Cultural Properties by Takasaki City and demonstrate the temple’s historical and artistic significance.
A Sacred Stop on the Bando 33 Kannon Pilgrimage
As No. 15 on the Bando 33 Kannon Pilgrimage, Chokokuji continues to welcome pilgrims from across the region. The Bando pilgrimage visits 33 temples dedicated to Kannon across the Kanto region and has been an important tradition of Buddhist devotion for centuries.
The honzon shingon, or sacred mantra associated with the principal Kannon image, is traditionally recited as:
“On maka kyarunikiya sowaka.”
The temple’s traditional pilgrimage verse is:
“Dare mo mina inoru kokoro wa Shiraiwa no Hatsuse no chikai tanomoshiki kana.”
These prayers express the hope that Kannon’s compassion will guide and protect those who sincerely seek it.
The neighboring pilgrimage temples are No. 14, Gumyōji Temple, and No. 16, Mizusawa-dera Temple, making Chokokuji an important stop for pilgrims traveling through Gunma.
A Temple Set Among Rocks and Seasonal Nature
The name Shiraiwa, meaning “White Rock,” reflects the rocky landscape surrounding the temple. Natural rock formations and forested hills give the grounds a peaceful atmosphere, while the scenery changes beautifully with the seasons.
Fresh greenery adds color in spring, while deep summer foliage creates cool, shaded surroundings. Autumn brings colorful leaves, and winter offers crisp air and a quiet atmosphere. Visiting the temple in different seasons provides a slightly different experience each time.
Access
From Takasaki Station, take a Gunma Bus service bound for Lake Haruna or Muroda and get off at Dodomeki. The temple is approximately a 35-minute walk from the bus stop.
Another option is to take a bus from Takasaki Station toward Gonda via Satomi and get off at Shimosatomi. From there, transfer to the Takasaki City Community Bus Miyazawa-Shiraiwa Line and get off at Shiraiwa Kannon Kita-Sansaro, followed by a walk of about 5 minutes.
Visitors traveling from Gunma-Yawata Station on the Shin’etsu Main Line can also reach the temple using a combination of local buses and the community bus.
A Historic Pilgrimage Temple in Takasaki
Chokokuji Temple is a remarkable place where religious devotion, centuries of history, Buddhist art, and seasonal nature come together. As Shiraiwa Kannon and the 15th temple of the Bando 33 Kannon Pilgrimage, it offers visitors an opportunity to experience a living tradition of Japanese pilgrimage.
For travelers exploring Takasaki and the surrounding countryside, a visit to Chokokuji provides a peaceful break from the city and a chance to encounter the enduring faith surrounding Kannon, the bodhisattva of compassion.