The Origins and History of Usui Checkpoint
A History Dating Back to Ancient Japan
The origins of a checkpoint at Usui Pass are believed to date back to the Heian period. A government document issued in 899, during the reign of Emperor Daigo, records the establishment of a checkpoint at Usui-zaka, alongside the checkpoint at Ashigara in Sagami Province.
At that time, travelers needed an official kasho, or travel permit, to pass through the checkpoint. Strict inspections were carried out, demonstrating the long-standing military and administrative importance of the Usui Pass route connecting eastern and western Japan.
Established by the Tokugawa Shogunate
The early modern Usui Checkpoint was formally established by the Tokugawa shogunate in 1623. Checkpoints had reportedly already existed around Usui Pass under the orders of Tokugawa Ieyasu, but the relocation and development of the checkpoint at present-day Yokokawa established it as a major official checkpoint.
It was initially known as Yokokawa Checkpoint. From 1708, the name Usui Checkpoint came into regular use.
“Preventing Guns from Entering Edo and Women from Leaving”
One of the checkpoint’s most important duties was the enforcement of the policy known as “iri-deppo ni de-onna”, literally referring to “guns coming in and women going out.”
The policy had two principal objectives: preventing weapons from being smuggled into Edo and preventing the wives and children of feudal lords from leaving Edo without permission.
Under the sankin-kotai system, or alternate attendance system, daimyo were required to spend periods of time in Edo, while their families generally remained there. As a result, women traveling through checkpoints were subject to particularly careful inspections.
It is said that approximately 200 to 600 people per day passed through the checkpoint on the route toward Kyoto. Travelers included merchants, samurai, and ordinary travelers, all of whom were subject to inspection.
Women required official documentation known as a rusuisho-monjo, or authorization issued by the shogunate’s representatives in Edo, before they could pass through the checkpoint.
The Checkpoint’s Layout and Officials
East Gate and West Gate
The checkpoint had gates at both its eastern and western ends. The East Gate was administered by the Annaka Domain, while the West Gate was under the authority of the shogunate.
The West Gate was also known as the “Tenka-mon,” or “Gate of the Realm,” reflecting the authority of the central government.
The checkpoint area stretched approximately 92 meters between the two gates. Within this restricted area were inspection offices, guard stations, and residences for officials.
The Lives of the Checkpoint Guards
Security was primarily handled by samurai serving the Annaka Domain. Officials included senior guards, ordinary guards, and doshin, lower-ranking law-enforcement officials who worked in shifts.
From around the Genroku era, residences were built within the checkpoint, allowing officials to live on site.
Their daily responsibilities included inspecting travelers, checking official documents, examining baggage, and enforcing the rules governing movement through the checkpoint.
Checkpoint Evasion and Severe Punishments
Attempting to pass through a checkpoint without authorization was considered a serious offense. Historical records contain cases involving people who tried to cross the mountains secretly or attempted to pass by disguising their identity or status.
Severe punishments could be imposed on those found guilty of evading a checkpoint, including crucifixion, exile to remote islands, and death in prison.
These harsh penalties demonstrate the importance placed on checkpoint control by the Tokugawa government.
Today, a memorial monument for people who attempted to evade the checkpoint stands at the historic site, quietly reminding visitors of the human stories behind the checkpoint system.
The End of the Checkpoint
Following the Meiji Restoration, the new government abolished Usui Checkpoint in 1869. In April of the same year, the gates, inspection buildings, and other structures were dismantled, bringing an end to more than two centuries of official checkpoint control at the site.
In 1955, the site was designated a cultural property by Gunma Prefecture. In 1959, the East Gate was reconstructed using original building components preserved by a local family.
Although the reconstructed gate does not stand in exactly the same position as the original, it provides visitors with a valuable impression of what the checkpoint looked like during the Edo period.
Highlights of the Usui Checkpoint Site
The Reconstructed East Gate
The reconstructed East Gate incorporates historic doors, pillars, and other materials preserved from the original structure.
Its substantial wooden construction gives visitors a sense of the atmosphere of an Edo-period checkpoint and helps make the historical landscape easier to imagine.
Ojigi-ishi – The Bowing Stone
Ojigi-ishi, or the “Bowing Stone,” is traditionally believed to mark the place where travelers bowed to checkpoint officials and presented their travel permits.
Standing beside this stone offers a chance to imagine the tension and formality that accompanied passage through the checkpoint centuries ago.
Usui Checkpoint Historical Materials Exhibition Room
Since 2018, historical materials relating to the checkpoint have been displayed at the Usui Checkpoint Historical Materials Exhibition Room inside the former Asa-o Chaya facility.
The exhibition introduces the checkpoint system and transportation during Japan’s early modern period, allowing visitors to learn more about the documents, rules, and everyday realities behind the checkpoint.
The Annaka City Tourism Organization has staff stationed at the facility, and the exhibition room is generally open except during the year-end and New Year holiday period.
Festivals and Local Events
On the second Sunday of May each year, the Usui Checkpoint Festival is held in conjunction with the Ando Remote Run, also known as the Samurai Marathon.
Traditional performances such as lion dancing and Yagibushi folk music bring the historic area to life. The event offers an interesting combination of local traditions, modern community activities, and the history of the Nakasendo.
Access and Visitor Information
Location
Yokokawa, Matsuida, Annaka City, Gunma Prefecture
Access
Usui Checkpoint is approximately 5 minutes on foot from JR Yokokawa Station on the Shin’etsu Main Line.
Historical Materials Exhibition Room
Opening hours: 9:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.
Closed: Saturdays, Sundays, public holidays, and the year-end/New Year holiday period. Please check the latest information before visiting, as opening arrangements may vary.
A Window into Japan’s Edo-Period Transportation System
Usui Checkpoint was far more than a simple inspection station. It was an important part of the Tokugawa shogunate’s political, security, and transportation systems, controlling movement along one of the major highways connecting Edo with central Japan.
Merchants, samurai, women, and other travelers all passed through this mountain gateway, presenting documents and undergoing inspections before continuing their journeys.
Experience the History of Usui Pass
The reconstructed East Gate, Bowing Stone, memorial monument, and historical materials together offer a glimpse into the strict order and rules that governed travel during the Edo period.
When visiting Usui Pass, take time to explore Usui Checkpoint and imagine the travelers who once stood at this gateway. Combined with nearby railway heritage sites such as Apt no Michi and Meganebashi, the checkpoint makes it possible to explore the long history of transportation across Usui Pass, from the Edo period to modern Japan.