One of Japan’s Rare Shrines on a Prefectural Border
The most distinctive feature of Kumano Kotai Shrine is the prefectural boundary that runs through the center of the shrine buildings. In front of the main sanctuary, separate offering boxes and bells are provided on the Nagano and Gunma sides. Religious services and amulets are also handled separately by each side.
After World War II, the enactment of Japan’s Religious Corporations Law required religious corporations to be registered on a prefectural basis. As a result, the Nagano side became Kumano Kotai Shrine, while the Gunma side became Kumano Shrine, creating two separate religious corporations.
Nevertheless, local people have traditionally regarded the site as a single shrine spanning both prefectures. It has long been affectionately known as Togesan, or “Mountain of the Pass,” and continues to be worshipped as one sacred place.
Taking advantage of its unusual location, a special Border Amulet was introduced in 2018. The amulet carries the meaning of “overcoming your own limits”, making it a particularly memorable souvenir from this unique shrine.
Deities and Blessings
The shrine is traditionally said to have been founded in 110 AD, during the reign of Emperor Keiko. According to tradition, Yamato Takeru no Mikoto established the shrine while on his eastern expedition.
The principal deities enshrined here include:
Hongu – Main Shrine
Izanami-no-Mikoto and Yamato Takeru-no-Mikoto
Nachi Shrine – Nagano Side
Kotosaka-no-wo-no-Mikoto
Shingu – Gunma Side
Hayatama-no-wo-no-Mikoto
These deities are closely associated with Kumano faith, one of Japan’s major traditions of mountain worship. Visitors traditionally pray here for good relationships and marriage, family harmony, traffic safety, good fortune, and prosperity.
The Nagano side of the shrine is also regarded as the general guardian shrine of Karuizawa and has long enjoyed the devotion of local residents.
Together with the Kumano Sanzan in Wakayama Prefecture and Kumano Shrine in Nanyo City, Yamagata Prefecture, it is traditionally counted among the “Three Great Kumano Shrines of Japan.”
The Legend of Yamato Takeru and the Shrine’s Origins
The Place Where Yamato Takeru Uttered “Azuma wa ya”
According to shrine tradition, Yamato Takeru became lost in thick fog when he reached Usui Pass while returning from his eastern expedition.
At that moment, a Yatagarasu, the three-legged sacred crow associated with divine guidance, is said to have appeared carrying a leaf of nagi in its beak. The bird guided Yamato Takeru safely through the mountains.
After reaching the summit of the pass safely, Yamato Takeru expressed his gratitude and is said to have invited the deities of Kumano to the site. This story is regarded as the origin of the shrine.
The legend is deeply connected with the tradition of Kumano worship and continues to capture the imagination of visitors today.
Kumano Kotai Shrine Through History
Historical records provide evidence of the shrine’s long history. A bell dedicated in 1292, during the Kamakura period, bears an inscription referring to Kumano at Usui.
During the Muromachi period, the shrine operated within the traditional Japanese system of Shinto-Buddhist syncretism. A Buddhist temple associated with the shrine and a Niomon gate were also once located on the grounds.
During the Edo period, the shrine became especially important because it stood along the Nakasendo, a major highway connecting Edo and Kyoto. Prayers were offered when feudal lords traveled through the pass.
In the former province of Kozuke, corresponding roughly to present-day Gunma, martial arts were particularly popular. Various martial arts schools dedicated votive plaques at the shrine and prayed for lasting success and protection in battle.
A Shrine Historically Shared by Two Provinces
Because the shrine’s hereditary priests were divided between the former provinces of Shinano and Kozuke, arrangements were made during the Edo period concerning its protection and administration.
The Hongu, for example, was traditionally placed under the protection of the two provinces on an alternating annual basis. This created a distinctive system of joint administration.
In the past, major festivals were also held jointly. During the spring festival, the Gunma side would recite the first prayers, while the Nagano side would take the lead during the autumn festival. These arrangements reflected the mutual respect between the two sides.
Today, each side conducts its own religious ceremonies, but the tradition of worship spanning the prefectural boundary remains an important characteristic of the shrine.
The Sacred Shinanoki Tree and Other Highlights
A Sacred Tree More Than 1,000 Years Old
A magnificent Shinanoki linden tree stands within the Nagano side of the shrine grounds. It has been designated a Natural Monument of Nagano Prefecture.
The tree is traditionally believed to be more than 1,000 years old and has long been revered as a sacred tree associated with good fortune and successful relationships.
A mirror has been placed inside a natural opening in the trunk, adding to the tree’s mysterious and spiritual atmosphere.
Muromachi-Period Guardian Statues
The komainu, or guardian lion-dog statues, standing beside the steps of the approach are traditionally considered to date from the middle of the Muromachi period.
They are regarded as among the oldest surviving komainu in Nagano Prefecture and are valuable reminders of the shrine’s long religious history.
Source of the Usui River
A source of the Usui River can be found within the shrine grounds. The spring has long been valued by people living in the surrounding area.
The combination of clear mountain air and pure spring water creates a serene atmosphere befitting this sacred site high in the mountains.
One of the “Three Great Kumano Shrines of Japan”
Kumano Kotai Shrine is traditionally counted among the Three Great Kumano Shrines of Japan, together with the Kumano Sanzan in Wakayama Prefecture and Kumano Shrine in Nanyo City, Yamagata Prefecture.
It represents the wide geographical spread of Kumano religious traditions and attracts worshippers and visitors from across Japan.
Tourism and Access
Because Kumano Kotai Shrine stands at the summit of Usui Pass, it is a popular stop for visitors exploring Karuizawa or driving through the historic mountain pass.
The surrounding area offers numerous opportunities to explore the old Nakasendo route, historic remains associated with Usui Pass, and beautiful mountain scenery. It is also an excellent area for walking and sightseeing.
The mountain landscape changes dramatically with the seasons. Visiting the shrine provides an opportunity to experience the natural beauty of the pass while learning about a tradition of worship that has continued for centuries.
A Sacred Place Where Two Prefectures Meet
Kumano Kotai Shrine is a remarkable shrine distinguished by its unusual location directly on the border between Gunma and Nagano. Its ancient traditions, legends surrounding Yamato Takeru, and sacred tree believed to be more than a thousand years old give the shrine a mysterious and deeply historic atmosphere.
The fact that one sacred site extends across two prefectures also makes the shrine a symbolic place where people and communities are connected beyond administrative boundaries.
When visiting Usui Pass, take time to walk through this peaceful mountain sanctuary, feel the cool air of the pass, and experience the unique combination of history, nature, and faith that has shaped the shrine for generations.