The Nakasendo and Haraichi
The Nakasendo was one of the five major highways developed during the Edo period. It connected Edo, present-day Tokyo, with Kyoto and served as an important route for travelers, merchants, and daimyo lord processions.
Entering the former province of Kozuke from Shimmachi-juku, the route passed through Annaka-juku and Matsuida-juku before crossing the Usui Pass toward Shinshu, present-day Nagano Prefecture.
The Annaka Haraichi cedar avenue lies between Annaka-juku and Matsuida-juku, just west of Annaka-juku. Today, the surviving trees stand along the overlapping section of Gunma Prefectural Routes 48 and 125, which follows the former National Route 18.
According to historical records, the cedar-lined road once extended for approximately 1 kilometer between Annaka and Haraichi, with more than 700 cedar trees lining the route.
When Were the Cedar Trees Planted?
The exact date when the cedar avenue was established is uncertain, and several theories have been proposed.
The 1604 Theory
One theory suggests that the cedars were planted around 1604, when milestone mounds known as ichirizuka were being established along the major highways.
If this theory is correct, the trees may have been planted as part of the broader development and improvement of the Nakasendo transportation route.
The 1615 Tradition
Another local tradition dates the planting to 1615. According to an oral story, a resident of Takubetto Village was planting cedar trees when a traveler brought news of the fall of Osaka Castle during the final conflict of the Osaka Campaign.
This story has become part of the local memory surrounding the cedar avenue.
The 1681–1686 Theory
A third theory attributes the planting to Itakura Shigekata, lord of the Annaka Domain, between 1681 and 1686.
The historical travel record Saisei Kiko contains a reference indicating that an ancestor of the Itakura family planted trees along the road.
However, a tree-ring survey conducted in 1970 found that many felled trees were approximately 280 years old, with the oldest reaching about 320 years. This suggests that some of the cedars predated Itakura Shigekata and that planting, replacement, and replanting probably took place over several generations.
From Hundreds of Trees to a Handful of Survivors
The scale of the original cedar avenue was impressive. In 1844, a total of 732 cedar trees were recorded in the Annaka and Haraichi areas.
The number gradually declined as transportation and the surrounding environment changed.
By 1932, only 321 trees remained. The number had fallen to 57 by 1977, and today just 13 trees survive.
Why Did the Cedar Trees Decline?
Several factors contributed to the loss of the trees. During the Tenmei eruption of Mount Asama, pumice was reportedly dumped around the bases of some trees. Later, the road became an important section of National Route 18, carrying heavy traffic until the 1950s.
Vehicle exhaust, road vibrations, and the deterioration of the roadside environment placed additional stress on the old trees.
Some of the former cedars were enormous. The largest trees reportedly reached approximately 41 meters in height and had trunk circumferences of up to 5.9 meters.
Although many of these giants were lost through disease, natural decay, and felling, several centuries-old trees remain. Some of the surviving cedars are believed to be approximately 300 to 400 years old, making them remarkable living witnesses to the history of the road.
Cedars Used as Building Timber
The cedar avenue was not only a scenic feature of the Nakasendo. Its trees also provided valuable timber for local construction.
Wood from the avenue was used in several important buildings, including:
- 1888 – Annaka Elementary School building
- 1897 – Usui Branch of Gunma Prefectural Middle School
- 1906 – Butokuden martial arts hall in Maebashi Park
- 1908–1909 – Guest House in Maebashi Park, now the Annex of Rinkokaku, and the former Usui County Government Office
In this way, the trees played an important role not only in the landscape but also in supporting the construction of modern buildings in the region.
A Symbol of Local Pride
The cedar avenue has long been an important part of local identity. It appears in Jomo Karuta, Gunma Prefecture’s famous regional card game, on the card beginning with the Japanese syllable “Na”: “Nakasendo shino-bu Annaka suginamiki”, referring to the cedar-lined avenue of Annaka remembered along the Nakasendo.
The inclusion of the cedar avenue in Jomo Karuta reflects the affection and pride that local people have for this historic landscape.
A Historic Road Shaded by Giant Cedars
In earlier times, the Annaka Haraichi cedar avenue was said to have enjoyed a reputation comparable to the famous Nikko Cedar Avenue. Travelers walking along the Nakasendo could rest beneath the trees and find shelter from strong sunlight, rain, and wind.
Today, the avenue is far smaller than it once was, but each remaining cedar carries a story that reaches back several centuries.
Walking through the History of the Nakasendo
The Annaka Haraichi Cedar Tree-Lined Street is an appealing destination for travelers interested in Japanese history and traditional roads.
Historic sites associated with Annaka-juku and the Usui Pass area can be visited nearby, making the cedar avenue a natural addition to a walking itinerary focused on the old Nakasendo.
Walking beside the ancient trees offers a sense of connection with the past. Although modern roads and vehicles now surround the site, the surviving cedars create a quiet atmosphere that recalls the days when travelers moved along the highway on foot.
A Living Witness to Japan’s Road History
Annaka Haraichi Cedar Tree-Lined Street is more than a row of old trees. It is a living reminder of the transportation network, landscape, and daily life of historical Japan.
From the hundreds of cedars that once lined the Nakasendo to the 13 trees that survive today, the avenue tells a story of both continuity and change.
When visiting Annaka, take a moment to see these venerable cedars and imagine the travelers who once walked beneath them on their journeys between Edo and Kyoto. Together with the historic sites of Annaka-juku and the Usui Pass, they offer a fascinating glimpse into the history of the Nakasendo.