A Temple Overlooking the Kiryu River
Fumonji stands on a narrow plateau approximately 70 meters above sea level on the eastern side of the Kiryu River. The area around Hishi-cho has a long history and was once part of Hishi Village in Ashikaga District, Tochigi Prefecture.
The temple grounds include the main hall, rebuilt in 1960, as well as Fumonkaku and a Kannon Hall dedicated to Jūichimen Kannon Bosatsu, the Eleven-Headed Kannon.
Along the approach to the Kannon Hall, rows of statues representing the Eighteen Arhats quietly greet visitors. Arhats are Buddhist disciples who have attained a high level of spiritual realization.
The wooded hill behind the temple is known as Mt. Kannon. From the hill, visitors can enjoy views of the Kiryu River and the surrounding city. Fresh greenery in spring and colorful foliage in autumn add to the peaceful scenery.
Fumonji Archaeological Site: Traces of the Jomon Period
One of Fumonji’s most fascinating features lies not in the temple buildings themselves, but in the hills behind them. The area is home to the Fumonji Archaeological Site, where evidence of prehistoric human activity has been discovered.
In 1947, researchers from the University of Tokyo and Gunma University, together with local high school students, discovered distinctive cord-marked pottery with impressed patterns dating from the Jomon period of Japanese prehistory.
A large-scale excavation was carried out the following year, uncovering numerous pieces of pottery and other archaeological artifacts.
The Fumonji-Style Pottery
Among the discoveries, the collection of early Jomon pottery with impressed patterns was particularly significant. It became important enough for researchers to propose the term “Fumonji type” for this particular pottery tradition.
Artifacts from the later Yayoi period have also been found, demonstrating that people lived and carried out activities in this area over a very long period of Japanese prehistory.
Standing on the hill above the Kiryu River, visitors can imagine that prehistoric people may have looked across the same valley thousands of years ago. This connection between an ancient archaeological site and a historic Buddhist temple gives Fumonji a distinctive appeal.
Origins in the Warring States Period
The history of Fumonji as a temple dates back to the Sengoku period, an era of civil war and political upheaval in Japan.
According to temple tradition, Yura Narishige, a powerful lord who governed the Kiryu area after the Kiryu clan, established Fumonji here in 1575. He is said to have invited Fumonji Temple from Serada Village in Nitta District to the present location.
The original temple belonged to the Tendai school of Buddhism, but after its relocation it became associated with the Soto school of Zen Buddhism.
The Eleven-Headed Kannon and the “Pokkuri Kannon”
The statue of Jūichimen Kannon Bosatsu in the Kannon Hall is traditionally said to have been enshrined by Yura Narishige.
The statue is particularly revered as “Pokkuri Kannon,” a form of Kannon associated with wishes for longevity and a peaceful end to life. The seated wooden figure is approximately one meter tall and has a calm, compassionate expression.
For generations, worshippers have turned to this Kannon with prayers for long life, good health, and a peaceful passage from this world.
Revival After a Period of Decline
Fumonji suffered a period of decline, partly as a result of the upheaval surrounding the Battle of Odawara and the political changes of the late Sengoku period.
During the An’ei era, Monk Mokugai Jakuyō of nearby Hosenji played a major role in restoring the temple. He is regarded as the temple’s restoring founder, or chūkō-kaisan.
The temple’s present appearance is therefore the result of repeated efforts to preserve and rebuild it through periods of difficulty.
A Temple Rebuilt After Repeated Fires
Fumonji has experienced several major disasters over its long history. In the great fire of 1843, many of the temple buildings were destroyed.
A temporary main hall was constructed during the Meiji period, followed by the rebuilding of the present main hall in 1960. Fumonkaku was added in 1977**, and the Kannon Hall was rebuilt in 1987.
The temple has also served as a place for Zen practice. In 1943, a meditation training center was established as the Kiryu Zazen Center, providing a place where people could study and practice Zen meditation.
Today, the temple grounds reflect both their centuries-old history and the successive efforts of more recent generations to preserve this cultural heritage.
Historic Treasures and Cultural Heritage
The main hall preserves an important votive painting known as the “Twenty-Four Generals of Takeda”, which was dedicated in 1703.
The large painting depicts Takeda Shingen together with his famous group of military retainers. It provides a fascinating glimpse into the religious practices and warrior culture of the Edo period.
The Eighty-Eight Longevity Steps
The stone staircase leading toward the Kannon Hall is believed to have been constructed in 1733 at the request of a local village headman.
Today, the staircase is also known as the “Eighty-Eight Longevity Steps.” Visitors climb the steps while making wishes for health and a long life, turning the physical approach to the temple into a meaningful part of the pilgrimage experience.
Kiryu’s Winter Daruma Market
One of Fumonji’s most popular annual events is its Daruma Market, held on the third Sunday of January.
The event began in 1964 as a ceremony combining a major memorial service for Bodhidharma, the traditional founder of Zen Buddhism, with a festival dedicated to the Eleven-Headed Kannon.
A Colorful Winter Festival
During the market, stalls line the temple grounds and surrounding streets, displaying rows of bright red Daruma dolls. These traditional Japanese good-luck figures represent Bodhidharma and are commonly used as symbols of perseverance and the fulfillment of wishes.
Lively calls from vendors can be heard around the main hall, while old Daruma dolls are ceremonially offered and given a respectful farewell near the Kannon Hall.
With more than half a century of history, the event has become one of Kiryu’s characteristic winter traditions. The lively festival atmosphere contrasts beautifully with the temple’s normally quiet surroundings.
A Place Where History, Nature, and Faith Meet
Fumonji Temple brings together several different layers of Kiryu’s history. Its origins are connected with a powerful lord of the Sengoku period, while the archaeological site behind the temple preserves evidence of human activity dating back thousands of years.
At the same time, the temple remains an active place of Kannon worship and Buddhist practice. Its natural setting beside the Kiryu River and beneath Mt. Kannon adds another dimension to the experience.
Visitors can climb the historic stone steps, pay their respects at the Kannon Hall, explore the temple grounds, and enjoy views of the river and surrounding landscape. During the Daruma Market, they can also experience the lively side of the temple’s religious culture.
Discover the Layers of Kiryu’s History
For international visitors, Fumonji offers an opportunity to encounter several aspects of Japanese culture in one location: prehistoric archaeology, samurai history, Zen Buddhism, Kannon worship, traditional festivals, and natural scenery.
The temple’s peaceful grounds invite visitors to slow down and appreciate the landscape, while its historic treasures and archaeological heritage reveal how deeply the area is connected to the past.
From the ancient Jomon artifacts to the Sengoku-period origins of the temple and the continuing tradition of the Daruma Market, Fumonji tells a story that stretches across thousands of years.
When exploring Kiryu, consider including Muisan Fumonji Temple in your itinerary. It is a memorable place to experience the history, faith, nature, and local traditions that have shaped this part of Gunma over the centuries.