Seven Traditional Weaving Techniques Create Remarkable Variety
One of the defining characteristics of Kiryu Textiles is the use of seven representative traditional weaving techniques. These are Omeshi-ori, Yoko Nishiki-ori, Tate Nishiki-ori, Futsu-ori, Uki Tate-ori, Tate Kasuri Mon-ori, and Mojiri-ori.
Each technique produces different textures, patterns, and visual effects. Together, they make it possible to create fabrics with a soft feel, elegant sheen, and richly dimensional designs.
These sophisticated textiles have traditionally been used for formal kimono, obi sashes, haori jackets, and fabric for coats, as well as many other high-quality garments and accessories.
Today, members of the Kiryu Textile Traditional Craftsmen’s Association continue working to preserve these techniques. Skilled artisans pass their knowledge from one generation to the next while adapting traditional craftsmanship to contemporary needs.
The Legend of Shirataki-hime – The Beginning of Kiryu Weaving
The history of Kiryu Textiles is closely associated with the Legend of Shirataki-hime, a traditional story that tells of the origins of weaving in the region.
According to the legend, approximately 1,200 years ago, during the reign of Emperor Kanmu, a man from Yamada District in the former Province of Kozuke traveled to Kyoto to serve at the imperial court. There, he fell in love with a court lady named Shirataki-hime and eventually brought her to Kiryu.
After settling in Kiryu, Shirataki-hime is said to have introduced the local people to the sophisticated silk-weaving techniques she had learned in the capital. She later came to be worshipped as a deity of weaving.
Kiryu Textiles were once also called Nitayama-ori. According to one story, this name arose because Shirataki-hime looked at the mountains around Kiryu and was reminded of the scenery around Kyoto.
From Ancient Times to the Early Modern Period
Records from the Nara period indicate that silk produced in the Province of Kozuke was presented to the imperial court as a form of tax. This provides an early indication of the region’s importance as a silk-producing area.
During the Kamakura period (1185–1333), Nitayama silk was reportedly used for the banners of samurai commanders. By the Muromachi period (1336–1573), Kiryu textiles were being distributed beyond the region, helping establish the area as a recognized textile-producing center.
During the Edo period (1603–1867), Kiryu Shinmachi was developed as a commercial town, and markets were established. Textile trade expanded to major cities including Kyoto, Osaka, and Edo, today’s Tokyo.
In 1738, a high loom technique known as takabata was introduced from Kyoto by textile craftsmen. This allowed Kiryu weavers to produce increasingly sophisticated figured fabrics. Techniques for producing patterned textiles using pre-dyed threads were also introduced, further raising the quality and variety of Kiryu silk.
During this period, Kiryu produced a remarkable range of silk fabrics, including aya, donsu, rinzu, habutae, chirimen, nishiki, and kinran. The reputation of Kiryu’s textiles gradually spread throughout Japan.
Modernization and Expansion to International Markets
Following the Meiji Restoration, Japan began exporting raw silk overseas through the newly opened port of Yokohama. While the growth of raw-silk exports created challenges for domestic textile producers by reducing the availability of raw materials, Kiryu’s textile industry adapted by developing blended fabrics using imported cotton yarn.
The introduction of Jacquard looms, the establishment of model factories, and the start of electricity supplies helped modernize production and transform Kiryu into a more advanced industrial center.
During the Showa period, quality control under Japan’s export silk textile inspection system helped strengthen the reputation of Kiryu products in overseas markets.
After World War II, the industry recovered through products such as exported scarves and expanded into new markets through trade fairs and other promotional opportunities.
Kiryu Textiles Today – Traditional Skills Meet New Manufacturing
Today, the Kiryu textile district is not dominated by huge factories. Instead, it functions as an integrated production area supported by many small and specialized businesses.
Different companies and workshops work together through a sophisticated division of labor, handling processes such as dyeing, fabric finishing, embroidery, sewing, and lace production.
This network produces a wide range of goods, including formal kimono fabrics, obi textiles, Western-style clothing fabrics, festival equipment, protective amulet bags for shrines and temples, neckties, and scarves.
As demand for traditional Japanese clothing has changed, Kiryu’s textile industry has explored new fields while preserving its traditional skills. Manufacturers have experimented with advanced materials such as carbon fiber and have supplied textiles for film and stage costumes.
By combining traditional craftsmanship with new materials, technologies, and markets, Kiryu Textiles continue to evolve in the modern era.
Establishing Kiryu Textiles as a Regional Brand
In 2008, “Kiryu Textiles” was registered as a regional collective trademark, providing legal protection for the value and identity of the textile-producing region.
Kiryu Textiles have also been designated by Japan’s Ministry of Economy, Trade and Industry as a traditional craft product, reflecting the importance of the area’s history, techniques, and craftsmanship.
Organizations such as the Kiryu Textile Promotion Association and the Traditional Craftsmen’s Association support the development of future artisans, the creation of new products, and the continued promotion of Kiryu as a “Fashion Town Kiryu.”
Discovering Kiryu Textiles as a Tourist
One of the best ways to appreciate Kiryu’s textile heritage is to explore the city itself. Historic textile factories, distinctive sawtooth-roof buildings, traditional warehouses, and textile-related facilities can be found throughout the city.
Visitors may also have opportunities to experience weaving and other textile-related activities, as well as view finished products and learn about the techniques used by skilled artisans.
A Living Textile Heritage
Kiryu Textiles are much more than traditional fabrics. They represent more than a thousand years of history, the accumulated knowledge and dedication of generations of craftspeople, and a culture shaped by the beautiful natural environment of the Kiryu region.
When visiting Kiryu, take time to look beyond the finished textiles and discover the stories behind them. The city’s historic workshops, traditional techniques, local legends, and modern innovations offer a fascinating glimpse into the spirit of Japanese craftsmanship.
Kiryu Textiles continue to connect Japan’s ancient weaving traditions with the creativity and technology of the modern age, making them one of the cultural treasures that define Kiryu today.