Mori Hideshima Textile and the Mechanization of Omeshi Silk
Since its foundation, Mori Hideshima Textile has developed around sericulture and weaving. The company became particularly well known for successfully mechanizing the production of Omeshi, a high-quality type of Japanese silk fabric.
During World War II, many textile factories faced restrictions on the production of luxury fabrics and were required to surrender machinery for other uses. Mori Hideshima Textile, however, was designated as an “Omeshi Manufacturing Technology Preservation Factory,” allowing it to play an important role in preserving traditional weaving techniques.
This effort to safeguard specialized textile skills also contributed to the recovery of the industry after the war.
In 1981, the former factory facilities were reused to establish the Textile Reference Museum “Yukari.” Historic structures, including the former sawtooth-roof factory, silk-twisting workshop, dyeing and boiling area, and warping workshop, have been incorporated into the museum space.
By preserving these original buildings as part of the museum, Yukari also functions as an important example of Kiryu’s industrial heritage.
A “Living Museum” Where Machines Move and Visitors Can Touch
Inside the museum are approximately 1,200 weaving machines, traditional tools, and historical materials.
Rather than simply displaying old machinery behind glass, the museum allows visitors to see some of the machines actually operating. Watching warp and weft threads come together to create intricate patterns right before your eyes provides a vivid sense of Japan’s living textile tradition.
Hands-on Indigo Dyeing and Hand Weaving
The museum also offers hands-on activities such as indigo dyeing and hand weaving.
Experienced instructors guide participants through the techniques, making the workshops suitable for everyone from beginners to more experienced learners.
The museum welcomes a wide range of visitors, including families, school groups, and international study tours. These experiences provide an enjoyable way to learn about both Japan’s modern industrial history and its traditional craftsmanship.
Japan Heritage and Industrial Modernization Heritage
The Yukari museum and the surrounding Mori Hideshima Textile factory complex are important reminders of the development of Japan’s silk industry.
The historic facilities have been recognized as Nationally Registered Tangible Cultural Properties and have also been designated as Heritage of Industrial Modernization by Japan’s Ministry of Economy, Trade and Industry.
They are also included among the component cultural properties of the Japan Heritage story “Kakaa-Denko: Gunma’s Silk Story,” recognized by Japan’s Agency for Cultural Affairs.
The Women Who Supported Gunma’s Silk Industry
The expression “Kakaa-Denko” symbolizes the important role traditionally played by women in Gunma.
In the worlds of sericulture and weaving, women played central roles in maintaining textile skills while also supporting their households and the regional economy.
The museum’s story of textile production therefore also highlights the contributions of these women, whose knowledge and labor helped sustain Gunma’s silk industry across generations.
The History and Characteristics of Kiryu Textiles
Kiryu Textiles have a history dating back to the Nara period (710–794). During the Edo period, techniques from Kyoto’s famous Nishijin textile district were introduced and combined with local craftsmanship.
Later, Western technologies and manufacturing based on organized factory production were introduced, helping Kiryu’s textile industry expand rapidly.
By the early Showa period, textiles had become one of Japan’s major industries, and Kiryu was nationally recognized for the quality and technical sophistication of its fabrics.
Seven Traditional Weaving Techniques
One of the distinctive characteristics of Kiryu Textiles is the preservation of seven representative weaving techniques:
Omeshi-ori, Yoko Nishiki-ori, Tate Nishiki-ori, Futsu-ori, Uki Tate-ori, Tate Kasuri Mon-ori, and Mojiri-ori.
These highly specialized techniques create fabrics with soft textures, elegant surfaces, and intricate patterns. The skills continue to be passed down by traditional craft artisans today.
The Legend of Shirataki-hime and the Origins of Kiryu Weaving
The origins of Kiryu’s textile tradition are also associated with the beautiful Legend of Shirataki-hime.
According to the legend, during the reign of Emperor Kanmu, Shirataki-hime moved from Kyoto to Kiryu and introduced silk-weaving techniques to the local community.
She is said to have later been worshipped as a deity of weaving, and the story remains an important part of Kiryu’s cultural identity.
Whether viewed as legend or cultural tradition, the story symbolizes the deep connection between Kiryu and textile production that has continued for centuries.
From Modernization to New Textile Challenges
From the Meiji period onward, Kiryu’s textile industry underwent rapid modernization through innovations such as the development of export habutae silk, the introduction of Jacquard looms, and the expansion of electric power supplies.
The industry later faced difficult periods caused by war and major changes in Japan’s industrial structure. However, Kiryu’s strength in small-lot, multi-product manufacturing allowed the region to adapt.
Today, Kiryu remains an integrated textile-producing region manufacturing a broad range of products, including formal kimono fabrics, obi textiles, Western-style fabrics, fashion accessories, and festival goods.
Modern applications have also expanded into new fields. Kiryu textile manufacturers have explored the use of advanced materials such as carbon fiber and have supplied fabrics for film and stage costumes.
This ability to respond to changing times while preserving traditional techniques is one of the defining strengths of Kiryu’s textile culture.
Experience Kiryu, the “Textile City”
Surrounded by mountains and blessed with clear rivers, Kiryu developed in an environment where nature and human industry have long existed together.
The silk culture that grew from this environment remains an important source of local pride. Kiryu Textile Reference Museum “Yukari” offers visitors a chance to experience not just a museum collection, but more than 1,300 years of Kiryu’s textile history.
The sound of weaving machines, the scent of dyes, and the texture of silk thread all provide tangible connections to the history of Kiryu and the people who supported its textile industry.
For travelers interested in Japanese craftsmanship, traditional industry, and hands-on cultural experiences, Yukari offers an opportunity to discover the depth of Japan’s silk culture while seeing how tradition and innovation continue to coexist in Kiryu.