Mount Kashozan, a Sacred Mountain Associated with Tengu Beliefs
The Legend Behind the Tengu Tradition
Mount Kashozan has been revered since ancient times as a sacred mountain associated with tengu. According to tradition, the origin of this belief is connected with a mysterious monk named Chuhoson, one of the senior disciples of the Zen master Tenson Keijun.
Chuhoson was said to possess supernatural powers that allowed him to guide practitioners through steep rocky mountains and caves. Remarkably, legends say that his appearance did not change even after many years of spiritual training.
When Tenson Keijun handed over his position as abbot, Chuhoson reportedly declared that he was an incarnation of Kashobo and that his mission had been completed. He then promised to protect the mountain and ascended into the heavens from its summit.
Afterward, a tengu mask was found at the site. This led to the tradition that Chuhoson had actually been an incarnation of a tengu. The story helped establish the mountain’s association with tengu worship, and Kashozan subsequently became revered as a sacred place for good fortune and protection.
The Traditional Kashozan Pilgrimage
Kashozan has a unique custom associated with its tengu worship. On their first visit, worshippers traditionally borrow a tengu mask from Chuhodo Hall and take it home.
When they return for their next visit, they bring back the borrowed mask together with a new tengu mask to dedicate to the temple. They then borrow another mask and take it home again, continuing the cycle of faith and dedication.
This distinctive custom is still practiced today, and the numerous masks dedicated at the temple represent the wishes and prayers of generations of worshippers.
One of Japan’s Largest Tengu Masks
The Giant Tengu Mask at Chuhodo Hall
Chuhodo Hall, also known as the Chinju-do Hall, is one of the main highlights of Kashozan Ryugein Temple. Inside is a gigantic tengu mask said to be one of the largest in Japan.
The face measures approximately 6.5 meters in height, while the nose alone is about 2.8 meters high. Its immense scale makes a powerful impression on visitors as soon as they enter the hall.
The hall also contains many other tengu masks, including a giant protective tengu associated with traffic safety and the “Great Tengu of Fulfilled Wishes,” dedicated by worshippers seeking the fulfillment of their prayers.
These masks are not merely decorations. They are offerings made by people who have entrusted their hopes and wishes to the temple, making the collection an impressive expression of the area’s enduring tengu tradition.
History of Kashozan Ryugein Mirokuji Temple
Founded in the 9th Century
The history of Kashozan Ryugein Mirokuji Temple is traditionally said to date back to 848. According to temple tradition, it was founded at the request of Prince Katsurahara, a son of Emperor Kanmu, who invited the distinguished Tendai Buddhist monk Ennin, also known as Jikaku Daishi, from Mount Hiei.
The temple was originally established as a Tendai Buddhist temple. In 1456, during the Muromachi period, it was converted to the Soto Zen school under the leadership of the temple’s restorer, the Zen master Tenson Keijun.
Prosperity Under the Tokugawa Shogunate
During the Edo period, Kashozan was known as a place where Tokugawa Ieyasu prayed for divine protection. The temple was granted a high level of status and became one of the important temples in the Kanto region.
However, the temple also suffered several devastating fires throughout its history. A major fire in 1879 destroyed the main hall, founder’s hall, and other buildings. Further fires in 1885 and 1929 caused additional losses.
Many of the buildings seen today were reconstructed during the modern period, but the temple’s long history and religious traditions have continued to be passed down through the generations.
Highlights of the Temple Grounds
Chuhodo Hall (Chinju-do Hall)
Chuhodo Hall is one of the most important buildings at Kashozan and a focal point of its tengu tradition. The giant tengu mask and numerous other masks dedicated by worshippers are displayed inside.
The sight of so many tengu masks gathered together provides a vivid impression of the strength and continuity of the mountain’s religious traditions.
Kannon Hall (Inner Sanctuary)
The Kannon Hall stands at a site traditionally associated with the ascetic training of Tenson Keijun. The building is believed to date from around 1726 and is one of the few remaining examples of early-modern architecture within the temple grounds.
Its most distinctive feature is its kakezukuri construction, in which the building projects outward over the mountain slope. This traditional architectural technique creates a dramatic appearance while harmonizing with the surrounding mountain landscape.
Sanmon Gate
The present Sanmon Gate was reconstructed in 1936. Its impressive irimoya-style roof and vivid colors give it a striking appearance.
Together with the red bridge crossing the approach, the gate is one of the temple’s most photogenic locations.
Umakakure Cedar
Within the temple grounds stands the Umakakure Cedar, a giant cedar designated as a natural monument by Numata City. The tree is said to be approximately 1,000 years old, with a trunk measuring around 10 meters in circumference.
The area beyond this cedar was traditionally regarded as sacred territory. According to local tradition, even samurai would dismount from their horses before proceeding farther into the sacred area, giving the tree its name, which means roughly “horse-hiding cedar.”
Numata Festival and the Tengu Mikoshi
The annual Numata Festival, held from August 3 to 5, features a spectacular tengu mask carried through the streets as a mikoshi, or portable shrine.
Known as the “Tengu Mikoshi,” this unusual portable shrine is carried exclusively by women. The enormous tengu mask moving through the city creates a dramatic spectacle and has become one of the defining sights of Numata’s summer festival season.
Zen Meditation and Religious Experiences
Visitors can experience more than simply sightseeing at Kashozan Ryugein Temple. The temple also offers opportunities for Zen meditation and other training experiences.
Participants can stay overnight at the temple’s training facility while practicing meditation. Away from the noise and distractions of everyday life, this provides an opportunity to slow down, reflect, and refresh the mind.
The temple also conducts prayers throughout the year for purposes such as traffic safety, family safety, and good fortune, attracting many visitors who come to offer their prayers.
The Once-in-a-Decade Grand Opening
Once every 10 years, the inner sanctuary of Chuhodo Hall is opened during a special ceremony known as the Grand Opening. This provides a rare opportunity for visitors to pay their respects before the sacred object enshrined inside.
The next Grand Opening is scheduled for 2035, making it a particularly special occasion for those wishing to experience one of the temple’s most important religious traditions.
Beautiful Mountain Scenery Through the Seasons
Spring: Fresh Greenery
In spring, Mount Kashozan is covered in fresh green foliage, creating a refreshing landscape filled with mountain air and birdsong.
Summer: The Sound of Mountain Birds
During summer, the calls of the sacred bird known as the bupposo echo through the mountains, adding to the mystical atmosphere of the forest.
Autumn: Brilliant Fall Colors
In autumn, the surrounding mountains are transformed by vivid foliage. The peak viewing period is generally from late October to mid-November, when many visitors and photographers come to enjoy the colorful scenery.
Winter: A Snow-Covered Sacred Mountain
Winter brings deep snow to Mount Kashozan, creating a quiet and almost dreamlike landscape. The combination of snow-covered forests, temple buildings, and the sacred mountain atmosphere offers a completely different experience from the warmer seasons.
Access
By Car
From the Numata Interchange on the Kan-Etsu Expressway, it takes approximately 25 minutes to reach Mirokuji Temple via the road toward Kashozan. The distance is approximately 13 kilometers.
By Public Transportation
From JR Numata Station, take a bus bound for Kashozan. The journey takes approximately 46 minutes. Get off at the Kashozan bus stop, then walk for approximately 45 minutes (about 3.7 kilometers) to reach Mirokuji Temple.
Please note that the bus service operates only on Saturdays, Sundays, and public holidays, with one morning service and two afternoon services.
A Journey into the World of Tengu Beliefs
Kashozan Ryugein Temple is a remarkable destination where religious traditions, mountain nature, and local folklore come together. Despite its secluded mountain setting, the temple attracts many worshippers and travelers throughout the year.
The enormous tengu mask, historic temple buildings, traditional customs, and beautiful seasonal scenery each offer a different way to experience this sacred mountain.
For travelers interested in Japanese folklore and religious culture, a visit to Kashozan offers an opportunity to encounter the enduring tengu tradition of Numata while enjoying the peaceful atmosphere of a mountain sanctuary.